Ricamare

L'arte del ricamare The beginning of the job to sweater doesn't have a certain dating for the difficulty to distinguish if the reached news concerned the job performed to the irons (I work to the irons) or that to loom.

To work to sweater

Certainly it is that this matter (I work to sweater), recently revalued by deepened studies, he/she offers only us sure and documented news when it stays us to the II or III century after Christ because before the history confuses too often him with the legend.
They have been however you find sculptures that go up again to the IV century to.C. what you/they have made to hypothesize that the job to sweater had entered by now the daily life, as it shows a Greek statue, that is found to Athens, in the Museum of the Partenone, Kore n. 670, that it seems to wear a sweater as that of our times.
Also not having specific documents to the respect, to a careful observation, you/he/she can be noticed that the artist has reproduced with I chisel him/it the workmanship of the point to coasts - three alternate right sweaters to three reverses or an alternation of seven rights and three reverses - in the dresses without seams that were worn during the sacred ceremonies.
From present tener that the number three and the number seven were considered numbers from the magic power.

Only in the Christian epoch it is possible to examine the first find of job to sweater, analyzing the structure and the colors of it.
It is probable that more ancient manufactured articles have not withstood the usury of the time or, more times have been recycled more simply, considering that one of the greatest merits of the job to sweater are really that to be able to be undone and employee for other uses.
The find came to the light in Syria among the ruins of Hard-Europas and introduces a technique very similar to the used one when he freely (and not a bottom the right armpit) works with the circular iron or with the two kept irons among the hands.
You/he/she can be hypothesized that the sweaters are been created by a solo iron, hooked on the point as the crotchet hook tunisino, tool typical of workmanship manual, simpler and more ancient of the job to loom, that was very diffused in the Mediterranean area. The found possession many finds especially in the middle-oriental area it makes to slant the researchers for an Indo-European origin of the job to sweater, this you/he/she is also suggested by the term sanscrito "nahyat" (I work to sweater but also net to the crotchet hook) from which derives the Anglo-Saxon term "ketten" thin to arrive at the end in modern English "knitting."
Finds have almost contemporarily been found also in the Peru to the first find siriano, but it are without doubt the tradition Mediterranean that that has spread for Europe.
In Egypt, to Bahnasa, numerous heads have been found worked to sweater that you/they make him go up again to the IV and the V century.

The city of Bahnasa was in that period lived by the Coptic Christians that were escaped to the invasion of the Arabs and you/they had found shelter near the monasteries of the coasts and the Irish islands, as they testifies the symbols Coptic and other sketches typical of the Egyptian period grafted him on the local tradition, melting himself/herself/itself with the Celtic motives for the region.
In these zones the sweater lost the vivacity of the colors but it purchased the relief in the extraordinary variety of points that, performed with the big non twisted wool and not shade of the islands Aran, they reproduced the most important symbolic sketches.
The points, all symbolic ones and beneauguranti, were generally created on a fund to upside-down sateen on which you/they sprouted the buds of the tree of the life, the movement of the water of the source of the salvation with motives for right sweaters, the diamond of the abundance in form of nuisance rice's lozenges, the lines to zig-zag of the marriage.
When the secret of these points went out of the cells of the monks and you/they was taught to the fishermen, they became as many symbols of the local families and every clan, had its reference in a series of points.
When two groups, through the marriage, they allied him, the new family inherited the points of the two clans of origin and in this way the points Arans spread in the Irish families.
In this region to perform the sweaters they were the same fishermen, while to his/her/their wives the assignment was delegated only to spin the wool.

The points imported by the Mediterranean coasts in to spread in the rest of Europe lost the stillness of the symbols and the colors and they multiplied him giving life to unbelievable results. They took back the reality and the elements of the places lived (flowers, stars, trees) in the embossed points and in the pierced points.
To spread these points for the whole Europe they were the merchants that crossed the broken carovanieres.

The used yarn was that of the wool, but during the Roman epoch and also for the whole medioevo the iron thread was used for realizing the sweaters of the armors of the soldiers, that nevertheless was not worked to the irons, but rather the drawn metal was worked in single rings that were woven before being closed.
When, in more advanced epoch, the silk was imported from the east, this became the yarn type preferred by the popes and by the kings.
Very precious heads were realized often enriched by gold threads that united him to the yarn of silk.

When Pope Innocenzo IV came buried in 1254, he wore some gloves to motley sketches worked in silk and in gold thread, imported from Spain (what it had one of the most important schools for the job to sweater, that reached whose maximum shine in the XVI century and it was famous above all for the workmanship of the gloves in silk and gold threads).

When Henry II of England in 1533 married Caterina de' Physicians, wore stockings of silk done to hand.
Henry VIII of England seems he preferred the Italian stockings of silk, you work with four irons without seams.

A head that was worn by a member of the real house was certainly imitated and in fact we can admire in the pictures of Hans Holbein the Young one and of other painters of its school, that withdraw during the years the family of the Tudors, a same and very simple motive for beret, worked to trimmed sweater with regular diminutions that you/they remained of fashion for one century.

The picture that more faithfully is witness of the appreciation of the job to the irons from the painters is the shovel of the altar of Buxehude in Germany, note as "it visits her some Angels", painted from Ledger Bertram in 1400, in which a moment of family life is represented inside the house of Nazareth.
In the painting the Madonna intenta can be observed to sferruzzare a small tunic "inconsutile", that is without seams, for Jesus Bambino finishing up the neckline with the circular system to four irons, unknown system still in that times in Germany, but observed by the artist during a trip to Italy.

The technique of the job in round, over that in Italy, it was also known in the moors of France of the South where the shepherds worked using five irons straight and in the British islands Guernsey and Island of Fair where the sweaters are worked only in a piece, without seams.

Very similar to the points of the sweaters of the islands Arans, are those of the sweaters Guernsey with the difference that I/you/they are performed, instead that with big wool, with thin wool of color dark and based on the different combination of the rights and the reverses where the effect of the relief is just mentioned.
As soon as he proceeds in the job the points they are prepared upward by the lower part so that to reconstruct, in symbolic form, the tappes of the life of the man, from the tree of the life to the crown of the glory.
The said style Guernsey is tied up to a non pleased moment of the history of the English monarchy and precisely to the decapitation of king Charles I.
The tunic that Charles I wore during the capital execution happened in 1649 was worked in sweater of silk real blue color and you/he/she had been commissioned in Italy according to the style and the points Guernsey.

The motives for the sweaters of the islands Shetland, worked in the natural colors of the earths, from the whipped cream to the brown dark color, they are mostly stylized and approached to the meaningful motives for the Scandinavian earths as the star of ice and the fern and you/they can be realized in two versions: a colored and more neighbor to the motives for the other islands and another pierced more characteristic of these islands.

Even if the job to sweater didn't have origin in Great Britain, here it was always kept in great consideration and it had a strong development.
When the reverend Guglielmo Lee, English, invented the first car for hosiery, Queen Elizabeth I it prevented that under its kingdom you/he/she was used and the inventor owed emigrate in France.

The queen had in fact to heart the fate of the artisan magliais that in that period you/they were organized in guilds with a precise statute.
To become magliaio needed to take a course of apprenticeship of the three year-old duration and in the three years that followed it needed to produce some tests that attested the personal ability. It was in fact obligatory to know how to perform a great carpet to more sketches and colors, a pair of stockings, a beret, a tunic or a sweater showing to have learned well all the techniques.
The guilds were only reserved to the men but also the women worked to sweater alternating him/it with the domestic job and that in the fields.
In a museum of Wales they are preserved of the utensils to form of knives bent that you/they were inserted in the belt and they served to hold up the right iron that was inserted in a wedge to the superior extremity.

But the progress pursued and reverend Lee's brother proposed with great success the use of the car for hosiery and already at the end of 1600 numerous cars can be enumerated for hosiery in the zone of Nottingham that you/they will extend soon him for the whole England.
Some French, on purpose sent to Nottingham to snatch the secret of the new car they succeeded in perfectly reconstructing the model and, toward the end of 1700, Joseph-Marie Jacquard succeeded in improving inserting her/it the possibility to use more colors contemporarily.
Jacquard became famous, so much that the name Jacquard has passed to not only point out his/her model of car, but also the points to more colors worked to hand.

In 1700 and in 1800 he kept on working to the irons but the colors you/they were abandoned.
It became of fashion the white color and above all the cotton yarns and of flax that well they were lent for realizing outfits for newborn, light scarfs and you pierce, hems and shirts.
In France the cuffietta of white cotton that becomes fundamental part of the country custom and they is realized berets of every variety show is born.
The pierced points are used and light similar to real laces.
You works to the irons not so much for profession but for the pleasure to realize with his/her own hands something beautiful. This epoch therefore you/he/she is remembered because it is now only that the job to the irons a becomes also "hobby."

In the Seven hundred one in Vienna the fashion is born to insert some colored beads in the white cotton always working her on the right of the job so that to form some sketches similar to small tapestries.
This involved a certain difficulty and precision in the insertion of the beads that you/they had to have inserted to one to one before beginning the job because the colors owed tener account of the final disposition of the sketch.

At the end of the second world war the job to sweater spreads for the world knowing true moments of glory and especially in the sporting environment it goes of fashion the English style of the sweaters of the islands that you/they will be worn by the same queen and by its relatives.
The photos of the royal family in sweater will be published on all the newspapers creating soon a diffused imitation.

The industry of the hosiery is fully on its way and diffused by now, and new techniques as the tubular start will be born, very used in Italy.
In the sixties it is assisted to a truth "boom" of the hand hosiery and the magazines, more and more numerous, they bring the explanations of the points and the models.
At the end of the sixties and for the following decade the job to sweater rediscovered the return to the origins.
They were those the years when he discussed of popular culture and the style folk it bossily entered the attire.
When the political men started to discuss some facts sudamericani they began to be born models that imitated the poncho and on the gilets the Peruvian motives for the llamas and the stylized dwarves they appeared.
When the fashion of the is born "you do from you" the beginners choose the big wools, the easy points to perform right models, avoiding increases and diminutions and preferring ample and comfortable models.
In 1990 the sweater suffers the rediscovery of difficult points and often reinventati to create something of particularly sought after and beautiful.
Today the sweater is never of fashion and the used techniques, unexpected only few years ago they are as, and the unbelievable combinations between the old one and the new one make the inexhaustible search.


Crotchet Hook - Embroider on Sketch - Counted Embroidery - Reported Embroidery - Knit - Embroider - Crotche thook's history - Sweater's history - Hemstitch - Hystory of embroidery - Cross stitch - Filati - Sitemap

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